Wednesday, January 11, 2012

Lame

la·mé  (l-m)
n.
A brocaded fabric woven with metallic threads, often of gold or silver.
 
 
I'm always looking for mew wording for my items and here's a great one from a fabric store:
This shiny metallic Silver Lame is sure to add a touch of elegance wherever you use it. For a memorable look, try Silver Lame for evening gowns, prom dresses, and bridal party fashions. Lame can also be used effectively for costumes, decorations, and flags. This sparkly Silver Lame fabric coordinates beautifully with all shades of blue, including royal, turquoise, and aqua. It looks equally lovely with satin or velvet in dark hues such as purple and maroon. The shimmer of this Silver Lame is also stunning when paired with white or ivory satin. For drop-dead glamour, combine Silver and Black Lame.
 

Silk vs. Satin

Silk vs Satin
 
Silk and satin are both smooth and soft. Though these two come with somewhat similar features and have a similar look, they are quite different in every sense.

Silk is natural; satin is artificial.
Silk is made from cocoons of silk worms. The fibre is removed from the cocoons and made into threads, which is then woven into clothes.
Satin can be produced from many types of materials like silk, nylon and polyester.

Satin is more delicate than silk and so when handling it, more care is needed. 

Silk, which is a natural protein fiber, has a shimmering appearance. The shimmering appearance is because of the prism like structure of its fabric, which refracts the light producing various colors.

Satin has a glossy surface and a dull back. Satin is made of a number of floats (interlacing). It is these floats that give Satin a glossy look and also a smooth surface.

Silk threads are hard to produce, as a single strand of thread requires silk from thousands of silk worms. This makes silk fabrics more expensive than satin.

Silk fabrics can be hand washed using cold water and it is better to avoid too much wringing as it can damage it. Satin fabrics should be dry-cleaned.

ruche

ruche  (rsh)
n.
A ruffle or pleat of lace, muslin, or other fine fabric used for trimming women's garments.
 
Ruching is the gathering of fabric. Fabrics can include lace, muslin or similar fine fabric

faille

faille
n.
A slightly ribbed, woven fabric of silk, cotton, or rayon.
 
Silk faille fabric features a distinctive ribbed texture, a subdued yet elegant sheen and a heavy weight. The characteristic corded effect in silk faille is produced by including, at regular intervals in the weave, a thicker yarn, leaving soft, wide, strongly defined ribs. Faille is a plain weave textile and is finer than grosgrain, a well-regarded sturdy woven corded fabric.


Silk faille has a smooth, lustrous feel and easy drape. These, combined with a readiness to take a crease, make silk faille popular for elegant apparel that's pleated or tailored. Silk faille fabric is widely used in dresses, skirts and slacks, as well as in tasteful home décor applications, and, in heavier weights, the material works well in coats and suits.

Friday, January 6, 2012

Learning New Words - Basse-taille

basse-taille (bas TIE yuh) An enameling technique that applies translucent enameling over an engraved, or decorated metal base.

Occupied Japan

History of Made in Japan Ceramics

 

1860s-1891 JAPONISME ERA
Before 1891 ,goods exporated to America did not have to be stamped with their country of origin in English. Japanese ceramics usually had no backstamps, or they had artists or their patrons names in Japanese characters.

1891-1921
NIPPON/HAND PAINTED NIPPON ERA
The McKinley Tariff, which took effect March 1,1891, required that all imported goods be stamped in English with their country of origin. At the time, "NIPPON" was considered to be an acceptable name for Japan, so most Japanese ceramics of this period were backstamped "NIPPON" or "HAND PAINTED NIPPON." often with a company logo as well. However, not all were stamped that way. There were still unmarked pieces, and pieces stamped "JAPAN" as well.

1921-1941 NORITAKE ART DECO ERA
Noritake Art Deco are the high end of Made in Japan ceramics. They were of better quality and most beautifully decorated. Noritake Art Deco pieces generally are priced higher than similar Made in Japan pieces.

1921-1941 EARLY MADE IN JAPAN ERA ("GOLDEN AGE")
The U.S. Customs Bureau ruled that "Nippon" was no longer an acceptable synonym for Japan. As of August 1, 1921 all goods were supposed to be backstamped "Japan"  Technically, the Made in Japan Era began when the Nippon era ended in 1921, but it really was not that precise. At some point the US Customs Bureau may have required that the words," MADE IN" be added to the backstamps, but this was not always done. Unmarked pieces sometimes slipped through Customs, but most of the ceramics from 1921 to 1941 are marked either "JAPAN" or "MADE IN JAPAN" . Sometimes all pieces in a set are not backstamped. The profit margin on ceramics was slim, and a factory could save a little labor cost by not marking every piece in a set. If pieces in a set have different backstamps, it is because there often was not room for “MADE IN JAPAN" or a company logo, so they just used "Japan" on some of the smaller pieces.

1947-1952 OCCUPIED JAPAN/MADE IN OCCUPIED JAPAN ERA
The US occupied Japan from Sept. 2,1945, until April 28, 1952. The Occupied Japan backstamp Era truly began August 15, 1947 when the first shipment of Occupied Japan ceramics arrived in America. The US Customs Bureau decreed in 1949 that Japanese goods could be marked "OCCUPIED JAPAN". "MADE IN OCCUPIED JAPAN","JAPAN" or "MADE IN JAPAN". Again, some were not marked at all.

1952-TODAY- POST-WAR MADE IN JAPAN ERA
When the Occupation ended in 1952, marks no longer contained the work "Occupied" so pieces were again marked only with "Japan" or "Made in Japan". This is when the paper label era really began. Prior to WWII, paper labels were flimsy and the glue was often not strong, so the Customs Bureau usually made importers replace the labels with indelible ink backstamps. In the 1950s, technology improved and paper labels were allowed. The two most common types of labels seem to be small oval or rectangular blue or black paper with white letters or two -color metallic, such as black or red with gold or silver lettering.

FROM COLLECTOR'S GUIDE TO MADE IN JAPAN BY CAROLE BESS WHITE.

Pulled Pork Crockpot


4 to 5 pound pork shoulder (butt) roast
2 large onions, sliced
4 to 6 whole cloves
2 cups water
1 bottle (16 oz) barbecue sauce, your choice
1 large onion, chopped, about 1 cup

Place half the sliced onion in the bottom of a slow cooker. Add pork roast, cloves, and water. Add the remaining sliced onion. Cover and cook 8 to 12 hours on LOW.

Remove bone and fat from meat. Discard onions, cloves and water.

Shred the meat and put it back in the pot. Add chopped onion and the barbecue sauce. Cook another 2 1/2 to 4 hours on LOW, stirring frequently to prevent scorching.